33 Main Street
Madison, NJ 07940
Phone: 973.822.2600
Fax: 973.822.2440
Contact Us Via E-mail
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| Soho February 10, 2002 By Cody Kendall |
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| Creative food and an energetic atmosphere conjure a hint of Soho 33's namesake section of Manhattan. A lively crowd has discovered this place, a storefront in the center of Madison, which is usually full on weekends. Folks who are playing it safe can stick with such staples of the regular menu as a mesclun salad ($8.95) with a scoop of warm herb-crusted goat cheese, veal scalloppini ($17.95) decked out abundantly in mushrooms and marsala sauce, or a standout vegetarian black bean soup ($5.95) jazzed up by jalapeño vinegar, crunchy tortilla pieces and crème frache. But patrons who go for it with the specials are well-served by the likes of grilled chicken fried dumplings ($8.95) zesty with smoked chipotle that got an extra jolt from spicy mandarin coconut sauce. Chilean sea bass ($20.95) crusted with an herb potato chip wrapper was matched with a yellow pepper vinaigrette highlighting the large portion of fish. A special that didn't work as well involved pan-seared shrimp ($18.95) tossed with grilled squash in a roasted tomato risotto. Maybe I'd had one taste too many of chipotle or jalapeño, but the shellfish dish seemed bland compared to what went before. A recommended starter that offers just enough excitement is the butternut squash polenta ($7.95) topped with wonderful crumbled fennel sausage, as well as sweet onions and Gorgonzola for sufficient pungency to pack a punch. If that doesn't work with your diet, there are several items marked with the heart-healthy symbol here, such as the grilled rosemary chicken breast ($13.95) with portobello mushrooms served over baby mixed greens. You can shell out as little here as $10.95 for macaroni with the basics - tomato/basil sauce and cheese, in this case, fresh mozzarella and Romano. The top of the price structure belongs to the grilled filet mignon ($21.95), sliced and leaning neatly around a centerpiece of mashed potatoes with a crown of frisée. A special featured warm caramelized pear empanadas ($6.95), Mexican-inspired bite-sized pastries, topped by a refreshing pear sorbet. I preferred the empanadas' underplayed sweetness to the over-the-top chocolate indulgence ($6.95). Service was brisk and businesslike. The decor is sleek and modern, rather minimalist, except for the attractive, colorful paintings (for sale) by Cynthia Smith Weiss of Mountainside. It's not a quiet place, but the hum of conversation is part of the atmosphere, which really comes alive with a staffers' rendition of "Happy Birthday" in Italian (we heard it twice). It delighted the celebrant and, it appeared, everyone else in the room. Although reservations are taken only for five or more on weekends, you can save time by calling ahead 45 minutes before you want to eat and getting your name on the waiting list. That's a recommended procedure, since the 75 or so seats fill up fast. Soho 33 offers a fun evening out for a reasonable price. return to top |
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